3 Days in Kanazawa: Japan’s Gem of Art, Sushi & Samurai Vibes

Nestled on Japan's west coast, Kanazawa is what I imagine Kyoto might have been 30 years ago—a perfectly preserved historical city without the overwhelming tourist crowds. Often overshadowed by its more famous siblings like Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka, this coastal gem delivers an authentic glimpse into Japan's feudal past while showcasing some of the country's finest contemporary art. After spending three unforgettable days exploring its winding alleyways, pristine gardens, and savoring what might be Japan's freshest seafood, I'm convinced that Kanazawa deserves a prime spot on every Japan itinerary.

While Tokyo's frenetic energy captivates millions of visitors yearly, Kanazawa offers something equally valuable but entirely different: breathing room to absorb Japanese culture at a human pace. Having escaped the bombing raids of World War II, the city retains much of its original architecture and layout, giving you the rare opportunity to step back in time while enjoying modern comforts.

In this guide, I'll walk you through my perfect three-day itinerary in Kanazawa, sharing insider tips on experiencing its samurai districts, artist workshops, seafood markets, and hidden gems that make this city so special. Whether you're a history buff, food enthusiast, art lover, or simply seeking the road less traveled in Japan, Kanazawa offers an experience that feels both authentic and accessible.

One of the beautiful aspects of Kanazawa is that while it feels somewhat off the beaten path, it's actually quite accessible. The opening of the Hokuriku Shinkansen line in 2015 was a game-changer, connecting Tokyo to Kanazawa in just 2.5 hours on a sleek bullet train. This makes it perfectly feasible as a side trip from the capital or as part of a broader Japan itinerary.

From Kyoto or Osaka, direct limited express trains will get you to Kanazawa in about 2 hours. If you're exploring Hokkaido's seasonal beauty and heading south, or coming up from exploring the street food scenes of Osaka's vibrant neighborhoods, Kanazawa sits as a perfect middle point to break up your journey.

Kanazawa Station itself is worth mentioning—a stunning blend of modern architecture and traditional aesthetics. The massive wooden gate (Tsuzumi-mon) and glass dome create a dramatic welcome, immediately signaling that you've arrived somewhere special. Take a moment to appreciate this architectural marvel before heading into the city.

Morning: Kenrokuen Garden & Kanazawa Castle

Start your first day early at Kenrokuen Garden, considered one of Japan's three most beautiful landscape gardens. Dating back to the 17th century, this sprawling garden changes with each season: cherry blossoms in spring, lush greenery in summer, fiery maples in autumn, and snow-covered pine trees supported by traditional yukitsuri rope structures in winter.

Arriving early (around 8 AM) gives you precious time to enjoy the garden before tour groups arrive. I found myself alone beside the garden's famous two-legged lantern (Kotoji-toro) and the oldest fountain in Japan, powered entirely by natural water pressure—a feat of Edo-period engineering that still impresses today.

From Kenrokuen, it's just a short walk to Kanazawa Castle Park. Though most of the castle is a reconstruction (the original fell victim to fires over the centuries), the impressive stonework and brilliant white walls make for stunning photography. Don't miss the intricate wooden joinery in the reconstructed buildings—built using traditional methods without a single nail.

Afternoon: Higashi Chaya District & Tea Ceremony

After lunch, head to the eastern side of the city to explore the Higashi Chaya District, the largest of Kanazawa's preserved geisha districts. These atmospheric streets lined with wooden machiya townhouses once bustled with geisha entertainment. Today, while a few teahouses still operate in their traditional capacity, many have transformed into cafes, shops, and museums.

Don't miss Ochaya Shima, a former teahouse that's now open to the public, offering a glimpse into the secretive world of geisha entertainment. I was fascinated by the carefully designed interiors, with their tatami rooms and discreet musical performance spaces.

For a taste of traditional tea culture, stop at one of the district's tea houses for a matcha experience. The ritual precision of Japanese tea ceremony slows time down in the most delightful way. I particularly enjoyed Kaikaro Teahouse, where you can sample matcha and wagashi (traditional sweets) in a building with over 200 years of history.

Across the district, numerous shops sell gold leaf products—Kanazawa produces 99% of Japan's gold leaf—from beauty products to edible gold flakes for your drinks and ice cream. It's touristy, sure, but when in Kanazawa...

Evening: Omicho Market Area & Riverside Dining

For dinner, head to the area around Omicho Market. While the market itself closes in the late afternoon, many seafood restaurants nearby serve the day's fresh catch well into the evening. Kanazawa sits between the Sea of Japan and the Japanese Alps, giving it access to some of the finest seafood and mountain vegetables in the country.

I opted for a small restaurant called Mori Mori Sushi, popular with locals and visitors alike for its reasonably priced kaiten (conveyor belt) sushi featuring incredibly fresh seasonal offerings. The snow crab and nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch, considered the king of white fish in Japan) were unforgettable—flavors so clean and pure they seemed to capture the essence of the sea.

After dinner, take a leisurely stroll along the Asano River, where traditional teahouses are illuminated after dark, their reflections shimmering in the water. This peaceful evening walk offers a perfect contrast to Bangkok's vibrant night markets or the neon energy of Tokyo, reminding you that Japan has many different rhythms beyond its metropolitan hubs.

Morning: 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art

Kanazawa beautifully balances its historical heritage with a commitment to contemporary art and design. Begin your second day at the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, an architectural marvel designed by SANAA, the Pritzker Prize-winning firm. The circular glass building with its various exhibition spaces feels surprisingly accessible, even to those not typically drawn to contemporary art.

The museum's most famous installation is Leandro Erlich's "Swimming Pool," where visitors can appear to be underwater when viewed from above. It's incredibly interactive and playful—I spent a good 20 minutes just watching people pose and interact with the piece.

Beyond the permanent exhibitions, the museum functions as a community space with a library, workshop areas, and a pleasant café overlooking a courtyard. I was struck by how seamlessly the museum integrates into the city's cultural life—locals use it as a gathering space rather than treating it as a tourist-only attraction.

Afternoon: Traditional Craft Workshops & Nagamachi Samurai District

Kanazawa has been a center for traditional crafts for centuries, with its six designated crafts: gold leaf, Kutani ceramics, Kaga-Yuzen silk dyeing, lacquerware, bamboo crafts, and Kanazawa-haku metalwork. After lunch, immerse yourself in this creative heritage by participating in a traditional craft workshop.

I opted for a gold leaf experience at Hakuza, where I decorated a small wooden box with delicate sheets of gold leaf so thin they would disintegrate if you breathed too hard. The precision and patience required gave me newfound respect for the craftspeople who have been perfecting these techniques for generations. Other workshop options include ceramic painting, silk dyeing, and lacquerware decoration—all offering hands-on connections to traditional Japanese aesthetics.

Next, wander through the Nagamachi Samurai District, where middle and upper-rank samurai and their families once resided. The earthen walls, narrow lanes, and water canals create an atmosphere that transports you back to feudal Japan. The restored Nomura Samurai House provides insight into how these warrior elites lived, with its impeccable garden, historical artifacts, and original interior features.

Evening: Kanazawa's Foodie Scene

Kanazawa's food culture rivals its artistic heritage. For your second evening, dive deeper into the local cuisine with a visit to the Katamachi or Korinbo areas, where you'll find everything from casual izakayas to refined kaiseki restaurants.

I chose Fuwari, a cozy izakaya specializing in jibuni, a Kanazawa specialty of duck meat simmered in a rich soy-based sauce with seasonal vegetables and served with soft mochi rice cakes. The umami depth was extraordinary, perfect alongside local Noto Peninsula sake. Unlike the convenience store gastronomy of Osaka's konbini culture, Kanazawa embraces slow food that honors local ingredients and traditional techniques.

If you're up for a nightcap, Kanazawa has embraced the craft cocktail movement with several outstanding bars. Vanilla Mood offers inventive drinks incorporating local ingredients like yuzu and Kaga vegetables in a sophisticated atmosphere that would feel at home in Tokyo or New York, but with a distinctly Kanazawa twist.

Morning: Omicho Market & Breakfast Feast

Begin your final day with an early visit to Omicho Market, the bustling heart of Kanazawa's food scene since the Edo period. Unlike the tourist-oriented experiences you might find in Hong Kong's urban chaos or Taipei's food markets, Omicho still functions primarily as a working market where locals shop daily.

Arrive around 8 AM to watch fishmongers prepare their displays of glistening seafood fresh from the Sea of Japan. The market's covered arcades house approximately 170 shops selling everything from seafood and produce to pickles, sweets, and kitchen tools.

For breakfast, several small restaurants within the market serve kaisen-don (seafood rice bowls) topped with the morning's freshest catch. I chose a modest-looking place filled with local workers and was rewarded with a bowl featuring buttery uni (sea urchin), sweet amaebi (raw shrimp), and meltingly tender slices of otoro (fatty tuna)—quite possibly the freshest seafood breakfast I've ever enjoyed.

Afternoon: DT Suzuki Museum & Nishi Chaya District

After a market morning, seek tranquility at the DT Suzuki Museum, dedicated to the Buddhist philosopher who introduced Zen concepts to the Western world. Unlike typical museums filled with artifacts and information panels, this minimalist space designed by architect Yoshio Taniguchi is more experiential than educational.

The museum consists of three primary spaces: a simple exhibition room, a contemplative space, and a water mirror garden. I spent an hour simply sitting in the contemplative space, watching light patterns change on the water and walls—a physical manifestation of the Zen principles Suzuki devoted his life to explaining.

From there, head to the lesser-visited Nishi Chaya District, the smallest of Kanazawa's geisha districts. While Higashi Chaya draws the crowds, Nishi Chaya offers a more intimate glimpse into the past with its narrow street lined with just a handful of well-preserved teahouses. The lack of tourists makes it feel like a secret discovery, though it's hiding in plain sight.

Nearby, don't miss Myoryuji Temple, famously known as "Ninja Temple" despite having no actual connection to ninjas. The nickname comes from its ingenious defensive architecture featuring hidden corridors, secret rooms, and trap doors designed to protect the lord during feudal conflicts. Tours must be reserved in advance but offer a fascinating glimpse into Japan's turbulent past through architectural innovation.

Evening: Farewell to Kanazawa

For your final evening, return to Higashi Chaya as the setting sun bathes the wooden buildings in golden light. Many shops close around 5 PM, leaving the streets to locals and savvy travelers. This twilight ambiance, with lanterns beginning to glow against the darkening sky, captures Kanazawa's magical blend of history and living culture.

For dinner, embrace Kanazawa's reputation for kaiseki cuisine—Japan's multi-course culinary art form. Tsuruko offers an accessible yet authentic kaiseki experience showcasing seasonal ingredients from both the mountains and sea that surround the city. The delicate progression of dishes celebrates Kanazawa's culinary heritage while demonstrating why Japanese cuisine earned its UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage designation.

Unlike the ruin bars of Budapest or Melbourne's lively laneways, evenings in Kanazawa tend toward the tranquil. After dinner, I enjoyed a final nighttime stroll through the illuminated castle gardens, reflecting on three days that had somehow felt both action-packed and deeply peaceful.

Kanazawa offers a range of accommodation options, from traditional ryokans to modern hotels. For location, I recommend staying near Kanazawa Station or in the central Korinbo area for easy access to major attractions.

I chose Hotel Intergate Kanazawa, a 10-minute walk from the station, which beautifully blends modern amenities with traditional touches—the complimentary evening sake service and morning Japanese breakfast buffet provided delightful bookends to each day of exploration.

For those seeking a more authentic experience, Ryokan Yamamuro offers traditional Japanese accommodations with tatami rooms, futon bedding, and a small onsen bath. The meticulous service and multi-course kaiseki breakfasts provided a deeper immersion into Japanese hospitality traditions.

Budget travelers will find several well-located hostels and guesthouses, including Good Neighbors Hostel, which occupies a renovated traditional building a short walk from Kenrokuen Garden.

Kanazawa is a wonderfully walkable city for those who enjoy exploring on foot. Most major attractions are within a 30-minute walk of each other, and the meandering journey between sights often reveals hidden gems not mentioned in guidebooks.

For efficiently covering more ground, the Kanazawa Loop Bus connects the station with major tourist spots on two different routes (Right Loop and Left Loop). A one-day pass costs 500 yen and proves economical if you'll be making three or more journeys. Buses are punctual and clearly marked in English, making them easy to navigate for international visitors.

Bicycle rentals offer another pleasant option during warmer months, with several rental shops near the station. The city is mostly flat, and cycling allows you to cover more ground than walking while still connecting intimately with your surroundings. Unlike the scooter adventures you might have in places like Taiwan's Liuqiu Island, Kanazawa's bicycle paths and slower pace make for relaxed exploration.

Three days in Kanazawa offered me a more nuanced understanding of Japan than weeks spent in larger cities. By preserving its cultural heritage while embracing contemporary art and cuisine, Kanazawa creates a uniquely balanced experience that feels both authentically historical and vibrantly current.

While Kyoto struggles with overtourism and Tokyo dazzles with its metropolitan energy, Kanazawa confidently occupies its own niche—a city that respects tradition without being trapped by it. The local pride in craftsmanship translates into everything from museum curation to restaurant service, creating experiences that feel genuine rather than manufactured for tourists.

As Japan reopens to international visitors and travelers seek alternatives to the Golden Route, Kanazawa offers the perfect combination of accessibility and discovery. It's developed enough to be comfortable yet authentic enough to feel like you've ventured beyond the familiar.

Like Bali for digital nomads or Tokyo for food enthusiasts, Kanazawa offers something special for travelers seeking deeper cultural connections. Whether you're drawn by the pull of traditional arts, the promise of exceptional seafood, or simply the allure of a less-traveled Japanese city, Kanazawa rewards visitors with experiences that linger in memory long after returning home.

In a country famous for both preserving the past and racing toward the future, Kanazawa may just be the perfect place to experience Japan's harmonious balance between tradition and innovation. Three days here will leave you understanding why locals proudly call their city "Little Kyoto"—while quietly believing that, in many ways, their golden city might shine even brighter.